Dent Removal & Re-brush

I spent Monday 11/27/2012 in Piper City, IL with famed Delorean Customizer Rich W, and famed stainless craftsman Chris N! I met up with them at Rich W’s storage facility (barn) and finally got to see some of his creations. Chris N was visiting from Europe to do some work for Rich’s convertible Delorean, and to do some work on Deloreans around the midwest. Chris removed several dents, dings, and scratches from my stainless, and left my car looking the best its been in my five years of ownership!

My car:

Scratch/dent:

Gone:

All done!

Chris N, working his magic on a panel:

Chris N and Rich W:

A rare shot of me, pealing protective tape off my car:

The Delorean Limo in its trailer:

The Monster Delorean D-Rex, The famed Monster Garage GT40 Rock Crawler, and my car.

Assorted Project cars, my hood on the table:

The Convertible Delorean! Chris N had been working on it:

Parts:

Ouch:

Rich W is hoarding underbodies:

Another:

Panels:

Frame from a fire victim:

:

Another rolling frame:

Chris N did a fantastic job on my car. Well worth the money.

Costs:
5.5 hours of labor: Withheld
Lunch for all of us: $15
Blue Painters Tape: $6.38
Gas, tolls: $20

3.0L Eagle Premier PRV

The stock DeLorean features a 2.85 liter PRV engine. This engine was used in other cars for many years, and was continually improved upon. The 3.0L version of the 1991-1992 Eagle Premier/Dodge Monaco PRV Engine is something I’ve wanted for quite awhile. You can find out more about the car, and the engine here:

http://www.allpar.com/model/premier.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eagle_Premier
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PRV_engine

Several owners have successfully done this engine transplant, along with the addition of EFI. I’ve seen some nice looking transplants, and DeLorean Performance Industries is now offering 3.0 engines. I had heard of people buying the cheap crate engines from MOPAR in the 1990s, or even buying Premiers and Monacos for dirt cheap. I decided to buy my own before they become even scarcer.

Ron W’s 3.0 Engine:

The advantages are more displacement, more horsepower, even-fire, serpentine belt, a cleaner looking engine compartment, and a smaller intake manifold. Water pump replacement is now possible without removing the intake manifold!

I had been searching craigslist for the entire car, and even negotiated the price of a 1991 Premier with 200K miles down to $200! I decided against the sale, later regretted it, but the car was gone. Other cars were too expensive, so I finally settled on an engine I found at a scrap yard. The mileage is unknown, the plastic engine cover is cracked, and the price was a little high. The good news is the engine rotates, and it came with a 90 day warranty.

I bought a harbor freight 2-ton engine hoist secondhand, and a harbor freight engine stand. I got a friend and his truck to help me:

Two PRVs in the same garage!

Leaking Power steering pump:

Power Steering Pump Removed:

Exhaust manifold removed:

Intake Manifold coming off:

In the valley of death:

Found in the valley:

Thermostat housing:

Thermostat:

Current State:
Idler Pulleys Removed
Power Steering Pump Removed
Sensors removed
Plugs, wires removed
Intake Manifold Removed
Exhaust Manifolds removed
Coolant Drain plugs removed
Thermostat removed
Water Pump Removed

Current plans:
Continue to disassemble, inspect components

Costs:
2-ton Engine Hoist: $150
Engine Stand from Harbor Freight: $40
3.0L Engine from Southwest Auto Salvage: $250.00, $17.50 tax

 

Brake Booster Adjustment

For years, I felt the brake pedal on my car traveled way too far. I replaced components, bled the system, and doubted every part of my work. It was suggested at the Fall Tech Session that I adjust the rod on the brake booster. After removing the master cylinder, and wedging a length of 2×4 between the brake pedal and my driver’s seat, the adjusting rod becomes exposed. While holding it with locking pliers, loosening it with some PB Blaster and an 8mm wrench, I was able to free it.

Here’s the adjusting rod removed:

I used increments of about 1/8 of an inch, to extend it, remount the master cylinder, and test the brake pedal travel. Finally I got to about 2 inches of travel before any brake pressure is felt. I used a little blue loctite on the threads once I found the sweet spot.

For the first time in many years, the brake pedal in the car feels very firm.

Fall Tech Session, Brake Work

At the fall tech session, I wanted to have Dave S look at my brakes. I’ve compared my brakes to other Deloreans, and there is way too much travel in the brake pedal. I’ve bled them in the past, and they don’t feel spongy.

Dave found that the front right caliper was separating! We were able to bolt it back together, which restored some firmness to the pedal. We bled the brakes, so now I have fresh fluid. I was also told I could lengthen the rod coming from the brake booster. I’ll do that another time.

I also found a local brick-and-mortar store that sells Castrol GT LMA brake fluid!

Cost: Castrol 32oz GT LMA Brake Fluid (1) $16.99 plus tax

New Steering Wheel

After spending most of the 1990s baking in the Georgia sun, my stock steering wheel had its leather peeling off:

Recovered steering wheels go for nearly $300. The new Momo steering wheels being offered cost $300, and looks great in DMC (Houston) Electric Delorean:

I found an alternative. This imitation wheel costs $35 on eBay:

Bought it:

DMC (Houston) sells a steering wheel adapter, but I tried to find a less expensive version. I bought a GM style steering wheel adapter off eBay. However, I found it needed to be cut down and new holes needed to be drilled:

Without the proper tools, and with car show season approaching, I opted to buy the more expensive adapter from DMC Midwest:

Everything installed:

I plan to create a DMC logo for the center of the wheel. This project ended up being more expensive than I planned. In the future, I plan to resell the GM steering wheel adapter on eBay.

**UPDATE 8/10/2013 **
DMC-H sold out of their steering adapters, creating a demand. I sold the GM steering adapter to another Delorean owner in Greece, who really wanted an adapter. The owner understood he would need to do some serious modifications to the adapter.

Costs:

Item

Vendor

Price

Shipping

Tax

Steering Wheel Adapter

DMC Midwest

69.95

12.99

5.42

Evo Style Steering Wheel

eBay

35

0

0

GM Chrome Steering Wheel Adapter

eBay

29.99

6.99

0

  

  

 

subtotal

160.34

GM Steering adapter Sale

  

52.00

  

  

Paypal Fee

  

-2.33

  

  

Shipping

 USPS

-20.45

  

  

  

  

  

Total

131.12

Screened Fresh Air Intake

The cabin’s fresh air intake will collect acorn tops, seeds, leaves, and other debris. One suggestion is to put a screen over it:

http://www.ohiodeloreans.com/gallery-TipsTricksMods.htm

I removed the windshield grill, and vacuumed out debris:


I had some scrap fiberglass screen on hand, and set it with a few dabs of RTV.

 

 


After reinstalling the grill, I’ll trim the screen. I also cleaned the fragile, broken grill:


I also discovered I was missing all but one of the rubber stands used to hold up the windshield grill. I found some nylon bushings at Ace Hardware that are the exact height:


Costs:

Screen: On Hand
RTV: On Hand
Nylon bushings: (7 @ $0.33) $2.31 at Ace Hardware

Maintenance

I added a missing O Ring between the airbox and the air metering unit:


I replaced the tired looking lock module breaker with an updated one. I updated the electrical connections to ring terminals, and eliminated some T-Taps:


New door and hoods struts.

New Cooling Fan Breaker.

Costs:

Seal O Ring

DMC Midwest

$ 1.50

Luggange Comaprtment Struts

DMC Midwest

$ 39.95

Door struts soft lift in pairs

SpecialTAuto.com

$ 69.95

Door Lock 25 Amp Breaker

SpecialTAuto.com

$ 2.95

Cooling Fan 40 Amp Breaker

SpecialTAuto.com

$ 2.95

Ring Terminals

Menards

$ 1.00

   

$ 118.30

(taxes and shipping not included)

 

Polyurethane Sway Bar Bushings

I’m trying to reduce vibrations while driving. It was recommended to try some poly sway bar bushings.

Old bushings, new ones:


While I had the sway bar out, I POR 15 painted it:


Old paint flaking off?


Can’t tell, but it’s now glossy black:


I crossed some threads reinstalling the bolts to the sway bar in the crumble tube. I reinstalled the bolt, and it went in a little rough. Ugh.

 

Costs:

Bushings for end (set of 4): $75.00
Bushings for clamps (set of 2): $34.00
POR15: On hand

Brakes

I found out my reservoir was causing a fluid leak, and not the Brake Master Cylinder after all. I was able to find a brake master cylinder with reservoir at NAPA for over $314, however opted not to buy it. Similar new units on eBay were around $200. DMC Europe sells a new Reservoir, but I decided against overseas shipping and currency conversion. I tried to find a better deal. Sure enough, Amazon turned up this gem:

The Centric unit “Includes Reservoir And Cap, Brake Sensor Switch.” I choose free shipping, and waited about a week for it to show up. It arrived, and sure enough, the Brake Master Cylinder did *not* include the reservoir! I sent it back for a full refund. I lost about 2 weeks with that purchase. The price has since been raised more than $25.

I explored a few local salvage yards without any luck. Then, miraculously, I was able to purchase a NOS Girling Brake Master Cylinder with reservoir on eBay. Here’s the unit I purchased:

My D’s reservoir and the new reservoir compared:

My old yellow tank’s build date is between 1978 and 1980. The new tank looks to be made sometime around 1983 or 1984.

I installed the new(er) tank with my old cap, all mounted on my new brake master cylinder. It held fluid! No more leaks!

I ended up reselling the NOS Girling unit (without the reservoir) on eBay.

While waiting for my Girling unit to arrive, I also went on a buying spree and bought another Saab Reservoir and a complete Saab Brake Master Cylinder with Reservoir on eBay.

The Saab reservoir would need different grommets since the tank connections are larger. Also, there aren’t any mounting points for the Saab reservoir. My old unit left, Saab unit right:

I also found a local parts store that carries Castrol GT LMA, albeit the 12oz bottles.

Now I’ve got lots of spare parts. Hopefully I can sell some more on eBay:

Costs

Vendor

Cost

Shipping

Tax

Fees

Total

Amazon.com

Centric Brake Master Cylinder

-43.25

0

-$43.25

Amazon.com

Return Centric Brake Master Cylinder

43.25

0

$43.25

eBay

NOS Girling Brake Master Cylinder with Reservoir

-$49.26

-$10.49

-$59.75

eBay

1987 Saab 900 Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir

-$12.95

-$7.25

-$20.20

eBay

Saab 900 Brake Master Cylinder with Reservoir

-$29.95

-$12.95

-$42.90

eBay

NOS Girling Brake Master Cylinder

$57.66

-$11.00

-$7.46

$39.20

-$83.65

Bumper to Bumper Auto Parts

(5) 12oz Castrol GT LMA Brake Fluid

-$12.45

-$1.03

-$13.48

So far, $83.65 to find a working reservoir. Hopefully I can recover some more money if I sell some parts on eBay.

More Winter Maintenance!

Projects Completed:

  • Install Transmission governor clamp
  • Change Final Drive oil
  • Change Transmission Oil
  • Change Engine Oil
  • Install Dynamat
  • Replace rusted ground bolt on rear bulkhead
  • Replace fuse in headlight switch
  • Added Dynamat
  • Replace Brake Master Cylinder
  • Replaced last two 30-year-old coolant hoses
  • Unblocked my air ducts
  • Flush the coolant

To do:

  • Replace leaking Brake Fluid Reservoir
  • Bleed Brakes
  • Put all interior pieces back in
  • Replace fuel pump
  • Replace fuel pump boot

Here’s more pics. I should buy stock in Castrol:

Filling the final drive:

Cleaning the reservoir, new Brake Master Cylinder ready:

New BMC and old reservoir:

Bench Bleed kit:

It now appears the reservoir is leaking, and possibly the old BMC wasn’t…

Unsuccessfully bleeding the system, still leaking fluid:

Bleeding the calipers:

I added up all the receipts I had, and guessed on the other items:

Vendor

Item

Cost

Shipping

Tax

Total

Meijer

Antifeeze

$10.49

  

$0.91

$12.27

Distilled Water

$0.87

Autozone

Sta-Bil

$5.99

  

$0.49

$6.48

Autozone

1 Quart Coastal DexMerc ATF

$3.49

  

$0.29

$3.78

Advance Auto Parts

Castrol 20W-50 1 Gallon

$13.99

  

$2.31

$30.29

Castrol 20W-50 1 Gallon

$13.99

Pep Boys

Castrol GT LMA 32oz

$8.99

  

$2.39

$31.35

Castrol GT LMA 32oz

$8.99

Castrol Gear Oil

$5.49

Castrol Gear Oil

$5.49

Pep Boys

Castrol GT LMA 32oz

$8.99

  

$1.11

$14.59

Castrol GT LMA 12oz

$4.49

Amazon.com

Dynamat 4 Sheet Kit

$49.98

  

  

$49.98

Amazon.com

Dynamat Bulk Pack

$138.37

  

  

$138.37

DMC Midwest

Brake Master Cylinder

$124.95

$12.83

$9.68

$147.46

DMC Midwest

Fuel Pump Boot Cover

$29.75

  

$11.65

$162.00

(2) Fuel Hose

$15.00

(4) Fuel Clamp

$6.60

Fuel Pump

$99.00

Amazon.com

Scotch Brite Stainless Pads

$24.90

$6.55

$0.00

$31.45

PJ Grady

Automatic Transmission Clamp

$25.00

?

?

$25.00

O’Reily Auto Parts

Brake Bleeder Kit

$8.99

  

?

$8.99

Amazon.com

Motive Pressure Bleeder European

$47.49

  

  

$47.49

Total

$709.50