Joliet Correctional Center Photo Shoot

One of my favorite films is The Blues Brothers (1980). About 20 minutes south of my home, is the now closed Joliet Correctional Center, or more commonly, “Joliet Prison.” The prison was used during the intro to the Blues Brothers, and today, is a great place to photograph. Wikipedia has a great entry on the prison here. I always wanted to get a good picture of the gate from which Jake emerges in the beginning of the film.

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So why not bring my Delorean to the prison to fill in for the Bluesmobile? Yeah, it doesn’t make any sense, but the pictures turned out great.

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A rare picture of me:
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Door Lock Wedgectomy

I came across instructions on the internet for performing a “wedgectomy” on the locks, which involves grinding off a plastic wedge from the door latches. With the wedge in place, the doors can’t be locked while open. Trying to lock them while open will put force on the linkages, possibly throwing them out of adjustment. A latch without a wedge can be safely locked while they’re open.

Since I have remote lock/unlock, there’s always a chance I might bump the lock button while the doors are open. My door panels were currently off due to maintenance and repair. My latch and lock linkages also needed adjusting, so I decided to perform the wedgectomy.

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Removing each latch is not easy! I spent a few hours reorienting and finally removing them from the doors. I took many pictures of the linkages so I could put everything back together correctly. Once the latches are out, performing the wedgectomy is fairly easy with a rotary tool and a burr grinding bit. I also got the chance to clean all the latches, and lube them up with lithium grease. Sorry, I didn’t get any pictures of the actual wedge, or it’s removal. Reinstallation is even more difficult due to adjusting the linkages.

After I reinstalled all the cleaned and updated latches, testing was successful!

Costs:
Lithium Grease: $3.99

Side Mirrors Repaired

Ever since I bought 16908, the driver’s side mirror has been wobbly. Someone previously took the bottom cover off the mirror, and tried repairing it. They didn’t, and the plastic cover was lost.

I was able to disassemble it, bend the compression washers, and stiffen up the mirror. I also cut a new piece of plastic to cover the inside of the mirror, and used RTV to secure it.
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The passenger side mirror has never been able to move on its vertical axis. Luckily the electrical connections were dirty, after just needed to be scuffed up to restore power to the motor.

My driver’s side convex mirror glass position needed to be corrected. I removed it, and reattached it with some 3M molding tape.
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 For the first time since I’ve owned the car, I have two perfectly working side mirrors!

Costs:

Item Vendor

Cost

Tax

Total

Molding Tape Advance Auto Parts

$ 6.99

$ 0.58

$ 7.57

Kneepad Maintenance

My previous owner had the passenger side kneepad recovered. However, the wrong vinyl was used, and the recover job didn’t turn out very well. I’ve grown to dislike the kneepad over the years, so I located a used kneepad in good condition:
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It has the right pebble texture, and the ripples in the vinyl. It’s a little worn and sun-faded, but I planned to re-dye it anyway since it needs to be black.

My other kneepads were loose, and they had to come out when I replaced my steering column. I also gave them a good cleaning before re-dying them. It turns out, they were disgustingly filthy! Lots of dirt, possibly from when the car was abandoned many years ago.

Dying the kneepads and door panels:
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Passenger kneepad dyed:
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I think they turned out well:
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I plan to sell the recovered kneepad, and “recover” some money. With these kneepads, now I feel I need to recover or replace the dash, binnacle, and A-pillars.

Item Vendor

Cost

Used Passenger Side Kneepad  

$ 90.00

SEM Landau Black Color Coat Summit Racing

$ 9.95

Total:

$ 99.95

New Seatbacks

My seatbacks were broken. The vinyl was torn, scuffed, worn, ripped, patched, and disintegrating. Even the staples for the material were rusted. I decided to try and make some new ones.
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Tools Used:
Jig Saw
Sharpie Marker
Dremel or Rotary Tool
Drill, drill bits, countersink
Disposable Paint Brush
Rivet Tool
Scissors
Razor blade
Heat Gun

Supplies:
Vinyl
Hardboard
Contact Adhesive
Rivets

I drilled out the rivets on my old seatbacks, and reclaimed the brackets. I marked the position of all the holes with an old seatback. After drilling the holes, I riveted on the brackets. I then spread on some contact adhesive and let it tack up. Then I warmed up the vinyl with my heat gun, stretched it and attached it to the board. Finally, some trimming with a scissors and razor.
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Marking the holes for the screws was the hardest part:
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The passenger side came out great!. Unfortunately the driver’s side is sub-par, and will need to be recovered at some point. For now, it’s still a huge improvement.

Costs:

Item

Vendor

Cost

Tax

Total

Dap Weldwood Contact Cement

Home Depot

On Hand

Disposable Paint Brush

Home Depot

On Hand

Black Shang Vinyl

Hancock Fabrics

$ 9.49

$ 0.59

$ 10.08

4′ X 4′ Hardboard

Menards

$ 4.79

$ 0.41

$ 5.20

Rivets

Home Depot

$ 5.24

$ 0.43

$ 5.67

4 Screws, 4 Nylon Washers

Ace Hardware

$ 2.12

$ 0.16

$ 2.28

Total:

$ 23.23

Steering Column, Bushing Replacement

For as long as I’ve owned my car, the steering wheel has been a little shaky at high speeds. When this occurs, the common cause is that the steering column bushing is worn and needs to be replaced. So I bought myself a bushing, and found some replacement instructions:
http://support.delorean.com/KB/a71/play-or-movement-in-the-steering-column.aspx

http://www.deloreanreborn.com/index.php?itemid=122

I decided I would remove the column while replacing the bushing, instead of using the “cut-and-cram” replacement method. I already had my knee pads removed since I’ve been re-dying some interior pieces. When I finally pulled the column out, a piece of it remained in the firewall… which is not supposed to happen:
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The steering column is collapsible in the event of a front end collision, so the column won’t impale the driver. There’s an inner column, made of two pieces where one fits over the other loosely. Then there’s an outer mesh jacket (or cage) that surrounds everything. The mesh provides some strength and stability, but crushes together in the event of an accident. A quick look at some parts diagrams confirmed the column was not complete. The mesh had been broken and removed by a previous owner. Broken mesh is a common problem, and can usually can be tack welded back together. The previous owner probably didn’t have the means, or just didn’t care.

New steering columns are around $260. Looking to save some money, I emailed a few guys that deal with used Delorean parts, and located a used steering column for a decent price. I was able to transfer the keyed ignition, turn signals, horn, and steering wheel to the new column. Old column (top), new(er) column (bottom):
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Here’s the steering wheel lock on the ignition, and the hole in the column where they go together:
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Delorean steering columns are adjustable in height, and telescope in and out. The common problem is once the height is raised, they sink lower over time. My steering column has this problem. Being 6′ 3″ in height, my legs take up a lot of room, and my steering wheel is always hitting my knees. I also found these great instructions on how to remedy the issue:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?5733&p=102148&viewfull=1#post102148

After I disassembled everything, I cleaned off all the grease and gunk, and roughed up the metal pieces with 60 grit sandpaper:
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I also installed the new bushing. The old one (left) didn’t look too bad:
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I used a jewelers screwdriver to force the two together. The screwdriver has a nice taper to it, which pulled the column and shaft into the sweet spot:
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I stripped the threads of the M8 bolt that connects to the shaft, so I bought a new stainless bolt and lock nut:
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I also needed a new M14 nut to hold the steering wheel in place, which wasn’t included with my new column. My previous column didn’t have it either since I crossed the threads once, then re-threaded them to larger threads: https://16908.info/?p=1124

Oh yeah, and I broke my low-profile Harbor Freight creeper:
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I got everything put back together, and I’m happy to report, the column is sitting very high, and is firmly locked in place! I can finally see the top of my speedometer! My test drive with the car at high speeds seemed very smooth!

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Item Vendor Cost

Tax

Total
Steering Column Bushing DMC Midwest

$ 15.95

$ 1.24

$ 17.19

Steering Column (Used)  

$ 130.00

$ –

$ 130.00

M14 1.5 Fine Thread Nut Ace Hardware

$ 3.20

$ 0.24

$ 3.44

Stainless M8 Bolt Ace Hardware

$ 2.20

$ 0.17

$ 2.37

Stainless M8 Lock Nut Ace Hardware

$ 1.10

$ 0.08

$ 1.18

$ 154.17

 

 

New Door Light Diode

I could see through the door gaps that when my passenger door was open, my driver’s door lights were lit. That’s not supposed to happen, the door lights should operate independently. After reviewing the wiring schematics, I traced the problem to a bad diode.
After some troubleshooting, I found the red diode was bad:
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Hey, is there something wrong with my steering column?

The door lights now work correctly.

Costs:

Item Vendor

Cost

Tax

Total

Diode DMC Midwest

$ 8.91

$ 0.69

$ 9.60

2013 Indianapolis Motor Speedway Festival of Automobiles

I attended this event with VIN 16908. We got to drive around the track at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway!

Friday night dinner parking in Lebanon, IN:
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Saturday morning meetup, caravan and police escort:
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Arrival at IMS:
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Track lap!
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Check out the video I made with my new dash cam!
httpv://youtu.be/Gb1w2i3B-RI

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Ken K, the man who sold me my car (I affectionately refer to him as the Previous Owner), and Stephen W of DMC-Houston by my car:

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Found this on twitter:
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Leaving, sandwiched between Dodge Vipers:
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Saturday Afternoon at Jason’s house and workshop:
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Saturday Night dinner parking:
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Driving home, selfie:
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Replace, Aim Headlights

Since I lowered my car in 2007, my headlights were never re-aimed. As far as I know, they are the stock lights, and very dim. Sylvania Silverstar headlights are the cheap improvement of choice for many Delorean owners. I finally was able to purchase and replace them:
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While replacing these headlights, I found out just how warped my fascia really is. To make matters worse, pulling and prying on the urethane fascia is causing micro-cracks in the paint.

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It’s advised to use a plastic drinking straw to cover your screwdrivers to avoid scratching the fascia. I also utilized some painters tape. This however didn’t stop me from scratching it. Its ok, my fascia is in fair/poor condition to begin with. Maybe the new reproduction fiberglass fascia is in my future…

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I replaced some screws for the headlight buckets with some M6 cap screws. I wanted stainless, but Ace Hardware didn’t have them in the length I needed. I settled for black anodized, and cut a groove into them with a dremel:

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I also got some stainless screws for the headlight bezels. I lost a few inside the fascia, and a few were corroded. The slotted hex headscrews fit perfectly into the nut driver, without a bit:
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Someday I’ll paint the exposed bezel screws black:

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Supplies used:
Painters tape
Magnetic screwdrivers
Plastic Drinking Straws:

I was able to get Autozone to nearly match the Amazon.com price.
Costs:

Item Vendor Cost

Tax

Total
Sylvania SilverStar Headlights H4656ST AutoZone

$ 17.99

$ 1.48

$ 19.47

Sylvania SilverStar Headlights H4656ST AutoZone

$ 17.99

$ 1.48

$ 19.47

Sylvania SilverStar Headlights H4651 ST Amazon.com

$ 15.95

$ –

$ 15.95

Sylvania SilverStar Headlights H4651 ST Amazon.com

$ 15.95

$ –

$ 15.95

#6 Stainless Sheet Metal Screws for Headlight Bezels (Qty: 8) Ace Hardware

$ 3.20

$ 0.63

$ 8.71

M6 Cap Screws (Qty: 2)

$ 3.78

M6 Allen Wrench

$ 1.10

$ 79.56

New(er) Negative Battery Cable

My negative battery cable was very stiff, and the insulation was cracked. I don’t like the Delorean’s claw-like battery connections either. I’ve also seen the frame connection end of the cable come apart. With vendors charging big $$$ for new cables, I set out to find a cheap alternative. Here’s what I found:

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(not the actual car)

A junkyard third generation Firebird had nice cables. Heck, there was a positive cable that wrapped around most of the engine compartment! It measures in over six feet! These long, thick gauge cables aren’t found on today’s cars.
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The negative cable also has another smaller cable leading into the battery connection. I might utilize this someday for stereo equipment, or my fuel pump. For now, its wrapped in electrical tape, and strapped down, away from the positive terminal.

I like the GM style battery connections better, and the frame connection has a nice crimp on it:
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I ended up cutting the Delorean cable to remove it. I’m willing to bet a lot of electrical problem arise from these poorly made connections. Again, this is why vendors are pushing sales of their expensive cables.
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…and with minimal effort, I was easily able to twist the connection off. Look, it made contact with less than 1/4 of the copper bundle. The rest is corroded:

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Connected to the frame.
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Someday I might cut off the red positive battery connection on the long cable, crimp on some terminals, and run it from the frame to the engine. For now, this will probably improve the grounding of the car.

Costs:

Battery Cable (short)

Aurora Auto Parts

$ 5.00

Battery Cable (long)

$ 10.00

Salvage Yard Admission Fee

$ 2.00

EPA

$ 1.00

$ 18.00