Ed's D

My 1983 De Lorean DMC-12, VIN 16908

New Door Light Diode

I could see through the door gaps that when my passenger door was open, my driver’s door lights were lit. That’s not supposed to happen, the door lights should operate independently. After reviewing the wiring schematics, I traced the problem to a bad diode.
After some troubleshooting, I found the red diode was bad:
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Hey, is there something wrong with my steering column?

The door lights now work correctly.

Costs:

Item Vendor

Cost

Tax

Total

Diode DMC Midwest

$ 8.91

$ 0.69

$ 9.60

2013 Indianapolis Motor Speedway Festival of Automobiles

I attended this event with VIN 16908. We got to drive around the track at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway!

Friday night dinner parking in Lebanon, IN:
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Saturday morning meetup, caravan and police escort:
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Arrival at IMS:
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Track lap!
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Check out the video I made with my new dash cam!

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Ken K, the man who sold me my car (I affectionately refer to him as the Previous Owner), and Stephen W of DMC-Houston by my car:

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Found this on twitter:
BKBXvm0CEAAKMDK

Leaving, sandwiched between Dodge Vipers:
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Saturday Afternoon at Jason’s house and workshop:
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Saturday Night dinner parking:
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Driving home, selfie:
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Replace, Aim Headlights

Since I lowered my car in 2007, my headlights were never re-aimed. As far as I know, they are the stock lights, and very dim. Sylvania Silverstar headlights are the cheap improvement of choice for many Delorean owners. I finally was able to purchase and replace them:
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While replacing these headlights, I found out just how warped my fascia really is. To make matters worse, pulling and prying on the urethane fascia is causing micro-cracks in the paint.

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It’s advised to use a plastic drinking straw to cover your screwdrivers to avoid scratching the fascia. I also utilized some painters tape. This however didn’t stop me from scratching it. Its ok, my fascia is in fair/poor condition to begin with. Maybe the new reproduction fiberglass fascia is in my future…

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I replaced some screws for the headlight buckets with some M6 cap screws. I wanted stainless, but Ace Hardware didn’t have them in the length I needed. I settled for black anodized, and cut a groove into them with a dremel:

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I also got some stainless screws for the headlight bezels. I lost a few inside the fascia, and a few were corroded. The slotted hex headscrews fit perfectly into the nut driver, without a bit:
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Someday I’ll paint the exposed bezel screws black:

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Supplies used:
Painters tape
Magnetic screwdrivers
Plastic Drinking Straws:

I was able to get Autozone to nearly match the Amazon.com price.
Costs:

Item Vendor Cost

Tax

Total
Sylvania SilverStar Headlights H4656ST AutoZone

$ 17.99

$ 1.48

$ 19.47

Sylvania SilverStar Headlights H4656ST AutoZone

$ 17.99

$ 1.48

$ 19.47

Sylvania SilverStar Headlights H4651 ST Amazon.com

$ 15.95

$ –

$ 15.95

Sylvania SilverStar Headlights H4651 ST Amazon.com

$ 15.95

$ –

$ 15.95

#6 Stainless Sheet Metal Screws for Headlight Bezels (Qty: 8) Ace Hardware

$ 3.20

$ 0.63

$ 8.71

M6 Cap Screws (Qty: 2)

$ 3.78

M6 Allen Wrench

$ 1.10

$ 79.56

New(er) Negative Battery Cable

My negative battery cable was very stiff, and the insulation was cracked. I don’t like the Delorean’s claw-like battery connections either. I’ve also seen the frame connection end of the cable come apart. With vendors charging big $$$ for new cables, I set out to find a cheap alternative. Here’s what I found:

trans
(not the actual car)

A junkyard third generation Firebird had nice cables. Heck, there was a positive cable that wrapped around most of the engine compartment! It measures in over six feet! These long, thick gauge cables aren’t found on today’s cars.
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The negative cable also has another smaller cable leading into the battery connection. I might utilize this someday for stereo equipment, or my fuel pump. For now, its wrapped in electrical tape, and strapped down, away from the positive terminal.

I like the GM style battery connections better, and the frame connection has a nice crimp on it:
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I ended up cutting the Delorean cable to remove it. I’m willing to bet a lot of electrical problem arise from these poorly made connections. Again, this is why vendors are pushing sales of their expensive cables.
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…and with minimal effort, I was easily able to twist the connection off. Look, it made contact with less than 1/4 of the copper bundle. The rest is corroded:

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Connected to the frame.
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Someday I might cut off the red positive battery connection on the long cable, crimp on some terminals, and run it from the frame to the engine. For now, this will probably improve the grounding of the car.

Costs:

Battery Cable (short)

Aurora Auto Parts

$ 5.00

Battery Cable (long)

$ 10.00

Salvage Yard Admission Fee

$ 2.00

EPA

$ 1.00

$ 18.00